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When assembling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at elite establishments. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.